Cooling
Search the FAQs
Use the form below to search the FAQs
The RX-7 Cooling System - Defined.

- Air Separator Tank (AST)
- Radiator Hoses
- Radiator
- Radiator Fans
- Coolant Overflow / Filler Neck (8.8L / 9.3Quart)
- Radiator Fan Relays
- Filler Cap
- Thermostat (inside thermo housing)
- Waterpump / Housing / Thermoswitch
What are some initial Cooling System upgrades?
- Aluminum Air Separator Tank
- Aluminum Radiator
- Silicone Radiator Hoses
- Upgraded Cooling Fans
- New Thermostat
- 185° Fan Switch
Why do I need an Aluminum AST?
The OEM Air Separator Tank (AST) is plastic made and prone to eventually fail. This can happen by a nearly invisible split at the seam of the tank or a deformation around the filler neck which reduces the sealing of the pressure cap. In either case, often unnoticed coolant leaking can lead to overheating and engine damage. The Pettit Aluminum AST is a direct replacement and upgrade for the stock unit and is far superior to the stock plastic unit. The Pettit Aluminum AST also includes a lever vent cap that allows you to safely depressurize the system for repairs or inspection.
Installs in 30 minutes or less.
Why do I need an Aluminum Radiator?
The RX-7 OEM Radiator is a quality part, many are still in use and working well after 16+ years. However, leaks are common from the plastic end tanks and any overheating will shorten the radiator's life. An aluminum radiator from Fluidyne, Koyo or Mishimoto (just to name a few) can provide additional coolant capacity, increased cooling ability and a more robust aluminum design is less prone to leaking or damage caused to increased heat.
Installs in about 2 hours.
Why do I need Silicone Radiator Hoses?
The factory rubber hoses from Mazda leave much to be desired because most hose leaks occur next to the clamps and prolonged heat can cause the rubber to swell and eventually fail. Cutting back a little hose and re-clamping will buy you some time against a major leak. However, the right choice would be to upgrade your stock hoses to a Pettit Racing HD Silicone Radiator Hose Kit. The kit includes both upper and lower radiator hoses and fresh clamps for a guaranteed fit.
Installs in about an hour - and a good excuse to flush / refill you coolant.
Why do I need Upgraded Cooling Fans?
The OEM cooling fans and relays are another common problem. When they fail, temperatures and pressure in the cooling system raises until the radiator cap reaches it's maximum pressure capacity and then leaks (spews) coolant. At that point continued operation can result in overheating and engine damage. There are four relays powering two fan motors which are controlled by the fan switch, A/C and ECU request (or manual override for testing). We commonly service and replace connectors, relays and motors due to their premature failing, but this is simply a band-aid. A better option is to buy Upgraded Cooling Fans. Upgraded Cooling Fans do away with the sub-par wiring and connectors in addition to increasing airflow and adding a level of durability you frankly don't get with the OEM fans.
Why do I need a new Thermostat?
The thermostat's job is relatively simple but extremely important; it regulates the engine's operating temperature. It does this by restricting the flow of coolant from the engine back to the radiator. The stock thermostat is set to open at 180° Fahrenheit, as it opens it begins to circulate coolant through the radiator. An Upgraded Thermostat will open at a lower temperature and begin cooling your engine sooner.
Why do I need a 185° Fahrenheit Fan Switch?
The factory fan switch is setup to turn on the auxiliary fans when water temperature reach 210° Fahrenheit. This higher operating temperature was chosen by Mazda to improve emissions requirements to meet US standards, however, this was at the sacrifice of engine longevity. To further exacerbate the issue, the OEM fan switch is prone to failure due to poor connections or excess heat exposure (ironic)? All this adds up to a commonly overlooked issue, which can lead to catastrophic overheating.
The 185° Fahrenheit Fan Switch from Pettit Racing is a heavier duty unit and forces the fans to turn on when temperatures reach 185° F, heading off heat issues before they do any damage. Even better, the Pettit Racing 185° F Fan Switch is a direct swap for the OEM switch and requires no additional wiring or fabrication.
Installs in about 30 minutes
I've done all the Initial Cooling Upgrades - Now What?
If you've followed the Initial Cooling Upgrade path, and want reduce further intake temps, charge temps, under hood temps and heat soak - these next steps will help address the problem and minimize heat conditions experienced at track events or under heavy street use.
Pettit Racing calls it Cool Power, but you'll call it magic. Pettit Racing Cool Power will allow your vehicle to perform to its full potential, with more power, efficiency and longevity. It doesn't matter what other upgrades you already have (intercooler, exhaust, etc) it compliments and improves overall performance.
Pettit Racing Cool Power Kits use the latest proprietary technology for thermal protection. These materials do not emit or expose the driver to harmful substances. The Thermal Barrier Panel or “TBP” is made from non-woven thermal insulation and is created specifically for use in areas where minimum space is available. The Thermal Barrier Wrap or “TBW” is made of woven thermal insulation, both types resists temperatures up to 2000 degrees F. Both materials contain zero asbestos, are non flammable, will not corrode, and resist mildew and deterioration.
Cool Power Kits are available for Single or Twin Turbo vehicles and contain a number of items, including Thermal Barrier Wrap for exhaust components, Heat Shields for the lower intake manifold/turbo and Thermal Barrier Panels for induction and intercooler components. Used in conjunction, lost horsepower will be reclaimed, temps will drop and components will extend their longevity and reliability due to alleviated under hood temp conditions.
Ask a Question
Use the form below to ask a question